Hawaiian Surfing history from the beginning; covering depictions of 18th century surfers by British artists aboard trade ships through Duke Kahanamoku, highlights of the 20s and 30s, Makaha and Hawaiian Culture in the 40s, the accomplishments by the heavies in the 50s and 60s, the innovations of the 70s, and the power surfers of the…

This is the story of a man who drowned… and came back from the dead to sleep with the world’s most iconic supermodel, Twiggy. A big wave pioneer who “died more times than Jesus”, a man who constantly risked his life to find life, to find the edge or reason and overcome it. His name…