Leave a Reply

  1. Cricket

    Even today when I go over there to Waimea, ya know, it just blows me away, it’s like, here she is, the same beautiful woman, only now she’s snuggling up to the next generation and the next generation. But the last time I went, I swear to God, I looked out, man, and I think she winked at me. You know, when one of them big sets came and the sun was dancin’ off the face of that wave, and the wind was blowin’ the top off, some guy was streakin’, she kinda went, “Hey, Greg Noll, I remember you” .… it makes me almost goddamn cry, and I’m not a very emotional guy, ya know….

    Greg Noll, former big wave surfer
    Riding Giants